Iron Heart IH-634-XHS – 25oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans

Made In Japan
– Designed by Shinichi Haraki, handmade by WORKS INC. in Japan
634 Straight Cut
– Traditional straight cut, inspired by the 1966 Levi’s 501The lot number used for the iconic Levi’s jeans cut. In 1890, Levi Strauss & Co assigned the 501 lot number to their famous patented copper-riveted jeans. The straight fit 501 remains relatively unchanged in cut and aesthetic, although a number of iterations have existed through the years, the rise and leg width changing in accordance with trends and manufacturing techniques. Used as a blueprint by a number of Japanese denim brands, Iron Heart’s 634 and 1955 cuts are both inspired by 501 iterations from the mid to late 20th century.
– Medium Rise
– Straight legA jeans cut where the legs run in a consistent width from the thigh to the hem. Straight leg jeans are considered an original classic cut and have been popular since the release of the Levi’s 501 in 1890. profile with a slight taper from knee to hem
– Wider leg opening to accommodate most types of boots and footwear
– Classic 5-pocket design
25oz Extra Heavy Japanese SelvedgeThe terms selvage (US English) and selvedge (British English) are a corruption of ‘self-edge’, and have been in use since the 16th century. Selvedge/Selvage is the term for the self-finished edges of the fabric. The selvedge keeps the fabric from unraveling or fraying and is a result of how the fabric is created. When it comes to denim, selvedge fabrics are created on a shuttle loom, the action of the shuttle being responsible for the finished edge. Selvedge fabric is largely considered to be superior to non-selvedge fabrics within the denim community, although this is not longer always the case. The quality of the cotton, the design of the fabric, the type of loom used and the skill of the weaver are the most important factors that affect the quality of the denim. A lack of these factors in the production of selvedge means that fabric with a selvedge ID can be of a mediocre or even poor quality. At the same time, fabric woven on projectile looms, with these factors present can be superior to other selvedge fabrics. Iron Heart produces a range of selvedge denims, chino and shirting fabrics woven on a variety of often vintage shuttle looms, by weavers with generations of experience, as well as premium quality non-selvedge fabrics. Denim (XHSXHS is an acronym for “Extra Heavy Selvedge”, a term used for our ultra-heavyweight Japanese selvedge denim. Weighing in at a mighty 25oz, there may be heavier denims out there, but Haraki-san believes that 25oz is at the upper end of what is can be comfortable and practical, and who are we to argue with him. A deep, dark indigo colour when new, the denim has an almost legendary reputation thanks to its unique qualities. While it is understandably stiff and challenging to use at first, it slowly softens with wear and tear to remarkable levels of comfort, while at the same time developing high contrast fading with a special tendency towards “tate-ochi”, or vertical fading.)
– Our heaviest of heavyweight denimWhilst there is no official division of weights within the denim industry, denim that weighs over 14oz (per square yard) is often considered heavyweight, as that is already a marked depature from high street denim that typically weighs 10-12oz. In denim afficionado circles, some consider 14-17oz middle weight, and everything over 18oz as heavyweight.
– 100% cotton
– 
Indigo rope-dyed warpIn weaving, the weft is the term for the thread or yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create cloth. Warp is the lengthwise or longitudinal thread in a roll, while the weft is the transverse thread. A single thread of the weft, crossing the warp, is called a pick. Terms do vary (for instance, in North America, the weft is sometimes referred to as the fill or the filling yarn). / white weftIn weaving, the weft is the term for the thread or yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create cloth. Warp is the lengthwise or longitudinal thread in a roll, while the weft is the transverse thread. A single thread of the weft, crossing the warp, is called a pick. Terms do vary (for instance, in North America, the weft is sometimes referred to as the fill or the filling yarn).
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Right-hand twill weave
– This denim will fade naturally through wear and washing
Hardware & Construction
– Traditional button flyThe opening at the front of a pair of trousers with buttons. First introduced in 1873 by Levi Strauss & Co, the riveted button fly has been seen on jeans since the original 501. The zipper fly wasn’t introduced until 20 years later. The majority of Iron Heart jeans use the button fly with the exception of those jeans with “Z” in the lot number (eg. IH-634Z)
– Iron Heart branded tack button at waistband

– Works Inc branded pocket rivets

– Hidden rivetsTo help hold the heavyweight tools that were often tucked into back pockets, rivets were introduced into the back pocket construction of jeans in the late 19th century. From 1937 onwards, they were covered to prevent damaging furniture, saddles, and car seats, the so-called hidden rivet was invented. Hidden rivets are similar to the exposed rivets on the front of a pair of jeans, but they are attached before the stitching is done, rather than on top of the pocket after stitching. This means that the rivet is only visible inside the jeans. Hidden rivets were generally dropped in the 1980s as they are complicated and expensive to attach, but have since featured on premium jeans, produced with an eye on older traditions. For denim afficionados this is especially exciting as eventually the rivet will rub through the denim as a result of long, hard, wear. Iron Heart jeans use hidden rivets at the top of their back pockets. on rear pockets
– Poly/cottonPoly/cotton is produced by spinning a sheath of cotton around a core of continuous filament polyester. The result is a thread with the sewing characteristics and traditional look of top quality cotton, yet retaining the many advantages of synthetic threads. stitching for increased strength

– Single and double needle chain stitch construction
– Belt loopsFabric loops that have been positioned around the waistband to hold a belt. Belt loops started to replace suspender buttons in the 1920s, once the belt trend emerged after World War I. With the exception of some early iterations of the 634 cut, Iron Heart sew the belt loops under and into the waistband of their 5-pocket jeans for increased strength and a cleaner aesthetic. anchored at three points and sewn into the waistband

– Heavy cotton pocket bags