Iron Heart IH-717 – 9oz Mercerised Selvedge Cotton Straight Cut Chinos

Made In Japan
– Designed by Shinichi Haraki, handmade by WORKS INC. in Japan

Straight Cut Chinos
– Medium rise

- Straight leg profile with a slight taper from knee to hem

- Wider leg opening to accommodate most types of boots and footwear
– 4-pocket design

9oz Mercerised SelvedgeThe terms selvage (US English) and selvedge (British English) are a corruption of ‘self-edge’, and have been in use since the 16th century. Selvedge/Selvage is the term for the self-finished edges of the fabric. The selvedge keeps the fabric from unraveling or fraying and is a result of how the fabric is created. When it comes to denim, selvedge fabrics are created on a shuttle loom, the action of the shuttle being responsible for the finished edge. Selvedge fabric is largely considered to be superior to non-selvedge fabrics within the denim community, although this is not longer always the case. The quality of the cotton, the design of the fabric, the type of loom used and the skill of the weaver are the most important factors that affect the quality of the denim. A lack of these factors in the production of selvedge means that fabric with a selvedge ID can be of a mediocre or even poor quality. At the same time, fabric woven on projectile looms, with these factors present can be superior to other selvedge fabrics. Iron Heart produces a range of selvedge denims, chino and shirting fabrics woven on a variety of often vintage shuttle looms, by weavers with generations of experience, as well as premium quality non-selvedge fabrics. Chino Cloth
– 100% cotton
– Cold mercerisedMercerisation is a textile finishing treatment for cellulose fabric and yarn, mainly cotton and flax. It was invented in 1844 by Englishman John Mercer. The process improves dye uptake and tear strength, reduces fabric shrinkage, and imparts a silk-like luster. The chino cloth utilized in the IH-717 and IH-720 is mercerized, the result being a smarter, more attractive pant, that will still stand up to a beating. for increased strength
– Reactive dyedIn a reactive dye a chromophore contains a substituent that is activated and allowed to directly react to the surface of the substrate. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the bonding that occurs during dyeing. Reactive dyes are most commonly used in the dyeing of cellulose like cotton or flax, but also wool is dyeable with reactive dyes. Iron Heart use reactive dying in many product lines but perhaps most notably in our “Superblack”, non-fading denim, available in heavyweight 21oz for type III’s and jeans, and lighter weights for shirting. warp and weft
– Fade-resistant to ensure a steadfast colour

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Hardware & Construction
– Universal zipper fly

– Iron Heart branded tack button at waistband

– Heavy-duty copper snap fastening on left rear pocket

– Poly/cotton stitching for increased strength

– Single and double needle stitch construction

– Belt loops anchored at three points and sewn into the waistband
– Heavy twillJust like a plain weave, a twill fabric consists of warps and wefts. However, in a twill weave, the weft passes under one or more warps and then over two or more warps. The next weft will “step” or offset one warp, this creates the characteristic diagonal line (known as a “wale”) that identifies a twill fabric. Twill weave is often designated as a fraction such as 3X1, where the weft passes over three warps and then under one (three up, one down). The 3×1 twill is used for any denim that is 10.5oz or over. For denim weighing under 10.5oz, a 2×1 twill weave will be used. Twills have a front and a back side and look different on the face and the back. Because a twill fabric has fewer interlacings than a plain weave, it allows the yarns to move more freely, which is one of the reasons that denim, which is a twill, shapes to the body well. How the weft thread is woven will determine the overall strength and aesthetic of the finished fabric. Finally, because a twill has an uneven surface, stains are less noticeable than on a plain weave fabric, which is good for workwear such as jeans. Although this technique is used in denim making, it is not limited to cotton. Linen, wool, and silk are amongst some other popular choices for the twill weave. pocket bags